Thursday 22nd October
The girls are at home handwashing, two days of clothes. Something which Pauline loves to do with her Mama, then she gets a swim in the bowl and to bath her doll.
The boys have gone to the mechanical shop to drain the radiator, the water dark brown. The oil is black and the air filter clogged. If you could drive these roads you could see why. Steve decides to take his computer to do school work and Moses his chapter book for the two hour wait.
A man arrives at the gate. I pay him 500 shillings, 30 nz cents to bury a plastic bag full of puppies hanging on the fence down our road. The stench unbearable. This is a common I am told.
People dump rubbish where ever they like. We also have a grave yard right outside our gate with about ten gravestones. No consents are needed to bury the dead where you want.
Pauline and I do some writing about the snake park and finish with a game of snakes and ladders before we head off to Engen petrol station to meet the boys. We buy dried fish and an avocado on the way and find the boys drinking a soda outside the shop in front of the car. Our day is about to become sour.
We enter the car to find our computer and bank stuff and Steve’s bible stolen. The armed guard is standing there he says nothing, all the attendants refuse to say if they saw anything. Steve was in the shop a few minutes and they used a screw driver which has broken the locks.
Across the road is the police station a few run down shacks and a jail cell. They have just locked 11 guys up for robbery. The detective takes us into one of the shacks and hand writes our story.
Some ladies turn up and bribe the guard to feed the prisoners. He leaves his post goes across the road to spend his money.
The detective comes over the road to the crime scene to inspect the crime scene but the video footage is blurry and everyone puts the blame on an Ipsum van to clear themselves.
The detective then asks me for money so he can contact us. I refused. He tells us to go to Jinga police station to get photos of the car. On the way we went to the bank to change our account numbers.
Jinga police station reveals the state of this city. Behind it is a lot of poverty STRICKEN children with distended tummies and rags as clothes. They play on a seesaw made out of a stump and tree branch. Bless them they offered for Pauline and Moses to have a turn. It was very well made. Tents were erected at the side where soldiers and police resided. There are armed vehicles and armed guards as this country is gearing up to election time.
Joseph our friend and Steve go back to Kitentale in the evening to pay the 62,000 shillings for the police report but we are told to go back to Jinga. Joseph warns the detective about trying to bribe us as he works for the vice president.
It is a devastating blow losing all our personal stuff, photos school resourses, etc but we thank God that we are safe.
Friday 23rd October
We drop the children off at a friend’s house for the day so we can sort out the police stuff.
We ride the gauntlet. This is a name we have given an intersection which is literally a life and death road way. So many risks are taken especially by boda guys with no helmets. Half the patients in the hospital are from boda accidents.
Imagine if you can an intersection with thousands of cars, trucks, matutus’ and bodas. A traffic officer is in the middle with a green lollipop the size of a small dinner plate. He is the traffic lights bless his heart. We saw so many misses of head ons as people ignored him and defy the gauntlet. We waited 20 minutes for our turn.
We arrive at jinga police to be told to go back to kitentale for the CBR number. Steve stands his ground and says no so they pick up the phone and ring for it. We then head off to Stanbic bank to pay the 62,000 to get a receipt so we can get our report. Steve’ stands in the que for one hour to be told they don’t process police money and to go to the town Stanbic Branch.
We ride the gauntlet and are given directions into town. However the street we are told to drive into is one way but there were many other cars parked as we were. A traffic lady comes over as we get out and tells Steve she is taking him to court for dangerous driving. We explained what we were told but she refused to give up. She did not have a ticket book. She was waiting for us to offer her a bribe. A crowd of Ugandans had gathered around and an armed police man arrived. I let loose in aloud voice I told her while looking straight into her eyes that we were not paying a bribe and I stuck my hands out for the police man to hand cuff me and I told him to lock me up and that we were not paying a bribe. They had a quick discussion and she turned to us and said “we are going to let you go this time”. You have to be tough here and stand up to them.
We found the bank and it took Steve two hours standing in a que of 50 to pay the money. I had to guard the car and fend off men coming over to help me. Our locking system was stuffed so I was it.
Lord give me love and an attitude of thanksgiving as I have a nice home to go to most of the population go back to damp leaky shacks and charcoal fires. I don’t want to become hard but I didn’t smile much today.
We ride the gauntlet back to Jinga police to find that they had run out of receipts and to come back next week. Still no report.
We found out the next day that the schools insurance policy does not cover our stolen computer. Steve is covered medically but we have to pay our own medical insurance.
We pick the children up at 6pm it was meant to be four. I bought Pauline a cooked maize cob from the side of the road wrapped in someone’s school work. Its either that or news paper. Hmm what a day we are exhausted frustrated and angry.
The next day I find out the plumber who fixed our leaking sink has stolen my wedding rings. There is nothing I can do but get hard and not trust anyone. We are learning the hard way unfortunately.
Now everyone here is telling us there stories of their thefts. Why didn’t they warn us earlier – there seems to be only one way to learn – survive each day and receive what comes to you.
October 25 to 28
Hi, its Monday Nov 1st and I am at Steve’s school they have graciously allowed me to use the computer to type up our blog.
Sunday 24th October
The storm....Our neighbour Kenneth invited us to church. Humble man who was blinded in one eye as a ten year old when another boy through a rock at him and it was not treated correctly. He burns our rubbish. We were praising God and the heavens literally opened embracing us with a deluge of water thunder and lightning. A river of water cascaded through the building. In New Zealand we would probably evacuate but not here, you just move to a dry spot and find a place where the water is not coming through the roof. I think God was smiling and he protected the worship team who kept singing as water lay at their feet covering the electrical cables!! It hailed down for two hours. The roads were flooded and the power down for a day and a half. Gas is a life saver for us as we can heat water for everything including bathing.
Behind the church is a drop hole which I will not brave again as I wretched even with door open. I try to stay humble and except things the way they are but now I plan my toileting times very carefully when I am out. Boda drivers are often seen on the side of the road, no wonder the ground is so fertile here.
Kenneth came for our first roast chicken dinner. We have decided to have one every Sunday and invite a neighbour. The chickens are yummy here and it is Pauline’s favourite. She talks to it while it is in the oven cute eh.
Monday 25th October
Arrive at school to discover Bosco’s wife very ill in Hospital. I set off for Nysambya hospital. Josephine is not there but my friend Barbara takes me on a tour of the children’s ward.
Wonderful opportunities arise for me to encourage parents and pray for children suffering from burns, falls and medical problems. The nurses give out the drugs and do the dressings while the family provides food, linen and physical care. One boy that touched me was a five year old that fell on a coal fire, his buttocks and thighs were burned.
The maternity ward was cramped with new borns and mums but it was clean. Woman waited, tied to beds outside in daylight waiting in a que to go into theatre. Emergency department was a line of pews out in the open and next to it was a que of people waiting to pay in advance for their care. This is a private hospital and you pay for everything.
I shall never ever complain about NZ public hospitals again after what I have seen.
I haven’t been to the public Hospital here called Mwalago which I here is atrocious.
Finally found Kibuli hospital which is Muslim. The building is more modern but the same principles apply where the family supply everything from food, linen washing of patient etc. I found Boscos wife lying on an old bed with one blanket no linen writhing in pain. They wouldn’t give her pain relief as she was going to theatre. This was 10 am. The charge nurse was intelligent as we discussed her condition after I was allowed to read all the doctors notes. Yeh they appeared to know what they were doing. As I mentioned in a previous blog this woman had already been in a public hospital where she delivered her 5.6 kg baby girl 12 pounds on the floor alone. Sadly there were no photos of her still born baby. I have a precious photo of My baby Bridget which I treasure.
She then was admitted a week later to a private hospital Chiwira where she was not treated properly and sent home after a huge bill with a walking aid as one leg was paralysed.
Now she is in this hospital I am visiting waiting for exploratory surgery for query peritonitis. She nearly died. The hospital bill is mounting and you have to keep paying so they will continue the care. It is difficult for most people here as they are on limited incomes which don’t cover such hospital care. Ambrosoli school staff were generous and raised a sum of money to help and this is a sacrifice for them also so may they be blessed.
Great news as Bosco gave his wife some soup and fish 4 days post op, she is now on the road to physical recovery and she can walk unaided after major bowel surgery. Praise God ours prayers have been heard but now she has a journey to deal with the grief of her precious daughter.
My Post office saga is insignificant compared to Boscos experience but I did lose the plot as I begged the Staff to give me the package. Driving into town is not an easy feat here and when you get turned away you get exasperated. I had ID but they wanted a letter from Steve to get the package. I lost it, swore at the lady and burst into tears as they called security onto me.
In the street I cried, I hated this place. Probably being in the hospital with Boscos wife was all a bit much and then this. I called my friend Joseph who thankfully was at the parliament building. He photocopied our passports and came across with a personal letter from the vice presidents secretary.
He said use it if they don’t except the passport ID’s. Guess WHAT they wanted the originals so I showed the letter. I got the package which was a gift for the children from Uncle Phil and Aunty Colleen. I did apologise to the lady I swore at.
My day is about to get even more exciting. I end up in a jam very close to the riot. One political party chopped down a tree at the gauntlet I told you about to stop the president from passing. It was all on with army riot police. It was loud with thousands of protestors blocking the road. There was thankfully no gun fire and I only waited an hour for it to be dispersed. Please pray for our safety as election time draws near and we will be more diligent about where we travel.
Thursday 28th
Police report and change of ownership.
Two jobs still incompleted.
Let me explain further. I arrive at the police station. The receipt guy has not arrived. Go to find the Ugandan Revenue Department. Given wrong directions so waste a heap of gas and its so expensive here. 3200 shillings a litre.
Go back to the police and he is there but does not have a receipt book. Hmm not impressed.
Ask the officer directions to URA as a police truck with armed police pass. The trucks stops, they talk in Ugandan. An officer with a rifle runs around and jumps in the car and says I will take you to the URA and you are safe. I am thinking this is unusual to have an armed convoy as the truck heads off. We arrive at the station 30 minutes down the road across from where I need to go and the officer jumps out with his gun. His boss comes over sticks his hand in the window and asks for money. I told him no and that I didn’t ask for one of his men to get in the car. Wound up the window and drove off. I must have a bounty out for me now.
The URA Ugandan Revenue Department is huge and you get harassed constantly by men wanting to help you but it’s so you can pay them. There are just so many desperate people here out of work. Processing is fascinating but backward here. There are no queues, you are herded in and your papers taken. The lady types in info while 20 of you wait. She pushes a button the paper comes out a mile and she throws it out her window and very body starts to rip off the sheets and call out names and hopefully nobody runs off with your info. I was horrified but this is how they do it here. Then you go back to the bank, pay the money and then back with your receipt to find out you are missing something. After half a day in the heat I have had enough but I didn’t lose the plot and have come to except that in Uganda everything takes time and to chill out .
On a positive note my darling bought me a bunch of pink roses you get 20 for three thousand shillings which is 2 NZ dollars so I shared them with Christine a neighbour who came for a yummy chicken dinner last night. All is well and we are blessed.
November blog from Kampala Uganda
Our hearts have been with the families and friends in New Zealand who have lost loved ones in the sudden pike mine disaster. It has been on the Alzerra news here in detail.
They use a lot of coal in this country. 95% of the population use coal to cook food and drinking water. Apparently it is the cheapest form of fuel. Steve and I have been struggling with smog, waking at night coughing and sneezing. People are starting to wear masks now because of excessive dust and toxic burn offs for everyday rubbish.
Moses and Pauline are invited to parties every weekend so we have a busy social life. Parents are invited and catered for in these beautiful homes. In the xpat community we are looked after in this way. But it’s the African parties that are the most flambouyant as they hire party planners, bouncey castles, clowns etc. Nothing is spared and I think it over the top but they are kind to us in this foreign land where it’s nice to have some things normal.
Yesterday, Steve Pauline Moses and I took a day trip to Jinja where the source of the Nile begins. It was a two hour drive to the birth place of this nation where the original port began at the beginning of the Nile river which is over 4000 kilometres long and stretches across many African nations. It was all a bit surreal after reading the stories about the Niles involvement in biblical history. Moses was really excited and claimed it was his river because of Moses in the biblical narrative in Exodus. A good read in the bible if you haven’t yet explored it and you will get an idea of where we are.
We took a boat ride up to the spring which is at the edge of Lake Victoria and spews out 30% of water into the Nile, it was fascinating and beautiful. We even got a rare glimpse of some Comodo dragons on an island. Kent our guide a young intelligent 14 year old, told us about the university of understanding situated on a nearby island. We were intrigued wanting to know all about the learning that takes place. He continued to tell us that it was a prison and that many tried to escape but turned back because the water expanse was overwhelming. They would end up drowning or a bullet to the head as the patrol boat did a search. Kent like many Ugandans was sad because he did not have the financial backup to further his education. Steve and I are confronted by young men and woman on a daily basis wanting financial assistance with education. A dilemma for them and us as we are not able to help as we are already committed to others needs.
After a lovely day in Jinja our travel home was about to become disturbing. We are really diligent about praying for protection and we are deeply thankful for the angels that surround us as we journey. Pauline and Moses even initiate prayers of safety.
Warrants are not a requirement here and we came upon many trucks stranded in the middle of roads with broken axels or flat tyres.
We stopped at an accident site where it appears two Matutu taxis had collided. One was down a bank and I saw a women lying arms splayed on the ground with no assistance. I have 20 years of nursing experience and this scene disturbed me deeply. I don’t want to seem superior in any way but I find ignorance here shocking. As I assessed her injuries it looked possible that her upper spine was probably broken or severed. She was unable to move any limbs or speak but her eyes flickered a response of complete fear and desperation. Crowds of villages surrounded us and I asked for a blanket or sheet to cover her as she was cold and in shock. The man standing nearby refused and said, no blanket she is not dead yet. I calmly said I know she is not dead but she is sick and needs a blanket. Moments later I was pushed aside by a woman traffic officer, she ripped open her dress, wrenched her bra off, leaving her breasts bare and four others took an arm each and her legs and carried her off head hanging. It was all so fast, I ran after them to hold her hanging head but the mud and ditch obstructed my efforts. If her neck wasn’t broken it would be now. They put her into the back of a traffic car to take her to hospital. I have been praying for the woman whom I don’t even know her name. I am sad that she was not treated in a dignified way. I do thank God though that I had a small opportunity to look into her eyes, stroke her cheek and tell her she would be ok. A lady at church today warned me never to stop at an accident site as it is too dangerous.
Pauline and Moses are doing really well. Many neighbourhood children come to play and we are teaching them to skip. Pauline celebrated her 6th birthday (per birth certificate) and she loves her new bike. She is a pro at riding already and proudly rode safely during bike safety week. We had a cup cake birthday at school with her class mates. Pauline wrote out cards for her friends. She loves to makes cards using her skills at colouring and cutting.
Moses continues to enjoy school especially the sporting events. He is the left wing in his soccer team and has a powerful kick. His basketball team played KISU at our school. KISU won the last match. Moses was proud of his little sister. The two girls in the team were unavailable and you have to play at least one girl. Pauline was invited to play. Her first game ever and she stole the show. The first half she defended well and threw the ball to Moses every time. Then she took a chunk out of her knee, got back up after screaming and kept playing. She is a strong gutsy player like Moses, so it looks like we are going to have some fun times ahead in the sports arena with these two competitive children.
Moses also enjoys crafts and we are going to start making our own Christmas decorations.
Bye for now have to deliver the children to their play dates. Thank you all and keep praying for our safety. Love Sharron
We are very blessed to have people help us buy a new laptop after the last one was stolen. Bruce Glover has coordinated the purchase of the new one and Nicki Hayward (from City Church) is bringing it over in two weeks. Today I played my acoustic guitar in the worship band for the first time. I did not plug in but I could hear my guitar and it was a cool experience. I will keep practising and taking a background role until I feel more able. The Kampala International Church is growing fast as people seek a more realistic experience that includes children. Some of the Ugandan traditional churches go for 3-4 hours with no facility/school for children and the preaching is very repetitive.
November/ December blog by Sharron
Hi to all our precious family and friends from the Caldwells in Uganda. We feel very blessed as our new laptop arrived in the arms of Nicky and her Aunty Kim and we are thankful to all of you friends and family and our home church City church for making this possible.
Nicky is a very enterprising young woman with such a passion to help Ugandans into small businesses. She and Kim came for Moses birthday tea with our neighbour Ken and a school friend of Moses. We had a candle light dinner as the power has been going down for an average of ten hours a day. It is Ugandas dry season and the power is generated by the dam water at the Nile. They also turn the water supply off for an average of three days a week so we plan baths and washing carefully. I gave one of my neighbours a ride up from the market as she was carrying a 20 gallon Gerry can of water up the hill. The women here are very strong and carry most of their goods on their heads.
What a busy time it has been with end of the year break up at school.
School production was amazing the children told the story of Jesus in an amazing way.
Sadly some families complained that we shouldn’t do a Christian production at an international school. However we acknowledge and make a fuss of all the other religious festivals and they have holidays attached as well.
I am involved in the PTA so I was busy two nights selling food and drinks to our visitors to raise money. We had an amazing Christmas carols night and i was surprised how beautiful candles look in brown paper bags. It is really convenient here in Uganda at Christmas as all year round it is dark at 7pm hence carols are in candle light.
Moses and Pauline were both in our church Christmas play and did great. Pauline an angel and Moses the wise man. My sewing skills are being challenged. Luckily I had bought a curtain from a leaving sale and it was perfect for both Pauline’s and Moses outfits.
Good old kiwi ingenuity. Moses and Pauline are doing well at basketball so Moses got a basketball for Christmas. We so wanted him to have a hoop but everything like that is imported and has an exuberant price tag. So I bought a bike rim and Steve made the backing and now we have a hoop for 7,000UG shillings about 5 dollars nz. Not bad eh!
We were meant to be in Kyazanga today but our neighbour Ken fell ill last week and was treated at a local hospital. I was not impressed with his care and his condition worsened so we delayed our trip. I decided to take him back to the hospital that treated him. I was shocked at its appearance driving in with queues of people waiting to shut doors. Windows were broken and there was rubbish everywhere. I was angry with the government which provided no dignity for these people and how dear they allow them to be treated in such a place.
I took Ken to our surgery which is expensive but I knew he would get adequate care. They injected him with medication and sent him home with antibiotics and strong pain relief meds. Next week he has to go to the Kampala private hospital to have a tooth extracted. Had he not been treated he could have died. The whole right side of his face had swelled like a balloon. I am no hero and I find the poverty overwhelming but thank God that we can provide a little as he has so blessed us. I get angry about the slack health services and ignorance. I was told that people do back street extractions as dental repairs are unaffordable.
Pauline and I visited Barbara our friend in the nursing home. She sleeps in a concrete floored dorm with 10 others in bunk beds the size of our dining room. Life is different here and people don’t expect luxuries like us westerners. They all seemed happy as we visited and content with their dwellings.
On a lighter note I got to help on Moses school trip. We went on 4 wheel drive buses and it poured down but we had a ball. The tour guides brought the vegetation onto the bus and told us amazing things about the vegetation and wildlife in the botanical gardens. We got to see poisonous spiders, feed the monkeys. One mum had given birth to her baby and I was told she will carry the dead animal for a whole day as her grieving process. She came and ate a banana out of my hand and I empathised with her. The gardens are amazing with cinnamon, canon ball and many other tropical beauties. I felt a sense of endearment towards Kampala as I lost a little of my harsh judgement of her.
Moses doctors visit is another saga which I may talk about next time. Even after 20 years nursing I am still an anxious Mum and need to know these doctors can deliver the goods. Hmm
Have to say BYE for now from Sharron Moses and Pauline who are very excited about going to the village for Christmas to celebrate with Josephs family and the Brighthearts Orphanage and community at large. Pauline is a little anxious about visiting her village but we have reassured her that she is coming home with us.
December by Steve
I am just organising our security man to watch over our house while we travel to Kyazanga. His name is Ken - our neighbour - who we are trying to help into employment. He is 22 and a budding writer/reporter or maybe teacher so I have asked one of my parents who owns the local newspaper New Vision to consider recruiting him as a trainee. Job opportunities for young people are very scarce here – the guy who runs a local ute truck who delivered my vege garden soil has 2 degrees and is making more money from driving a little delivery truck.
November December were fun months with lots of social times. I am enjoying playing in my first band – the worship band at Kampala International Church. I am not plugged yet because my guitar pickup has stopped working which is a blessing as I get used to supporting the lead person. Means I can hide a little and make some mistakes with chord changes. Actually Christmas songs are quite difficult – heaps of quick chord changes.
We purchased 100 mosquito nets – a huge bale of nets weighing heaps – needed a ute to pick it up for delivery to Kyazanga primary School. We travel there tomorrow the 24th Dec to celebrate with the orphans and Joseph’s family – should be a riot. We have prepared gifts for them over the last 12 months so our car is completely weighed down with lots of practical items. It will be interesting for Pauline going back home – she is starting to turn her nose up to the filth and rubbish and so she is not exactly in a hurry to embrace her old situation. Her English is progressing well as we work on sounds and plenty of red level books.
I have been thinking how to help a local 9 year old boy – Amos - who runs the young mafia thieves corporation. Moses and I play soccer with his gang and it is very full on physically. We attracted 35 boys yesterday from our community for a game of soccer on a local mud patch bordered by open drains, a snake and gardens. They are great players and go in hard which is the way I like it!! Amos always turns up at our gate with his gang and yesterday he turned up by himself for the 3rd time. Well I thought it was time to let him in on certain conditions and test him out. I went with him to his home and shock horror – a tiny mud cave hovel no bigger than the average kitchen. His mum pleaded with me for help with school fees – the usual banter and begging. I am more interested in helping Amos learn to read. I did a reading test using a kindy/primary one pink level reader and he could not recognise a single word!!!So I have told him if he touches anything I own without permission or takes anything that is the end of our relationship and help for his future. The test is on so let’s see how we get on as I develop his literacy.
I am enjoying my school it is very colourful, full of music and culture and a whole array of very interesting parents from all over the world.
